The Garden of Java
T he province of Central Java, comprising the central third of the island of Java, including the former self-governing territory
of Surakarta, has a population of close to 30 million. The provincial
capital is Semarang, a port and a trading center on the island’s north
coast.
The soil is generally fertile, except in the limestone mountains along the eastern parts of the north and south coasts, where it is lacking in nutrients and surface water is often scarce.
Along the coastal regions the fishery is an imp ortant source of the people’s livelihood.
Central Java is rich in culture and history, a legacy which it acquired from a Hindu and• Buddhist past, strongly overlaid with younger Islamic elements.
The first Islamic kingdom of Java was born in Central Java, and it was from this region that the faith eventually spread to other parts of the island. The Demak kingdom was established by Raden Patah in 1611, in the wake of the decline of the Hindu Javanese states. One of the province’s greatest Islamic edifices is the Grand Mosque of Demak, which is said to have been built in a single night by one of the nine wali - the early leaders and proselytizers of Islam in Java. Symbolic of the early spirit in which the new faith was introduce d, the mosque displays in its architecture a curious mixture of Islamic and Hindu influences.
The great influence of Hinduism and Buddhism, particularly between the 8th and the 10th centuries A.D., can today be seen in Central Java, among other things in its magnificent temples. The Borobudur Buddhist shrine near Magelang, for example, has to this day not found its equal in Java in terms of size, grandeur and finesse of detail. The stark elegance of the Dieng temples is still impressive.
The imprints of history are everywhere. In Semarang, one can still admire the quaint charm of 17th century European buildings in several corners of the city. In Kudus, near Demak, the presence of what is believed to be an old Hindu temple tower on the grounds of a venerated mosque illustrates better than any text the spirit in which the shift from one religion to the other must have taken place.
Surakarta, or Solo for short, is the province’s center of Javanese culture. The courts of Solo illustrate the great value which the Javanese attach to the elements of grace and refinement. Today, the courts are no longer the seats of power which they once were. Still, they are still regarded by the people as the bearers of the values which the Japanese have treasured for so many generations.
Central Java has places of inta in abundance.Cool mountain resorts span the length of the province, from Baturaden, Gua Lawa (Bat’s Cave) and Jatijajar cave in the western regencies, to Wonosobo and the Dieng Plateau in the center and TawangmaflgU near Solo in the east.
For those who like the beaches and the sea, there is, for example, the Cilacap coast with its “buried fortress” and Nusa Kambangan isthmus.
For a more adventurous trip, ferries can take you to the Karimunjawa islands in the Java Sea, about 135 kilometers north of Jepara.
The simplest Javanese houses have bamboo frames, posts of coconut or teak wood, and roofs of dried palm-leaf or earthenware tiles. The walls are usually made of plaited bamboo sheets, called gedek. Such houses are normall y rectangular in shape, with few or no frills.
The houses of those who can afford them hovever, are much more elaborate and can take many shapes, such as limasan (pyramidal), njerum, joglo, daragepak, serotong, klabang nyander, tajuk, kutuk ngambang and sin ow. The first type mentioned is the most often seen. The joglo is among the grandest.
Mostly farmers, many Central Javanese villagers derive their income from other kinds of manual labor, such as making coconut oil, empe fermented soy bean cakes, red bricks, batik, and mats. of plaited bamboo sheets, called gedek. Such houses are normall y rectangular in shape, with few or no frills.
The houses of those who can afford them hovever, are much more elaborate and can
take many shapes, such as limasan (pyramidal), njerum, joglo, daragepak, serotong, klabang nyander, tajuk, kutuk ngambang and sinom The first type mentioned is the most often seen. The joglo is among the grandest.
Mostly farmers, many Central Javanese villagers derive their income from other kinds of manual labor, such as making coconut oil, tempe fermented soy bean cakes, red bricks, batik, and mats.
Brebes, Tegal, and Pekalongan
The Brebes regency in western northern coastal area of the province, has a number of sites of touristic interest. They are: Ranjeng Lake near Pandansari village, the Tirta 1-lusada hot water baths in Kedungolong, Penjalin reservoir in Widuaji, all in the Paguyangan subdistrict; Curug Putri waterfall near Mandola village, the Tuk Kaligin baths and the Sendang Penganten pool in the Sirampong subdistrict; and the Cipanas hot water baths in Buaran and Rand u Sanga beach in the Brebes subdistrict.
Malahayu reservoir, near Malahayu village, Banjarharjo subdistrict, was built in 1938. Besides the artificial lake, the site boasts a teak forest in the vicinity and a pleasant climate. The Malahayu reserve occupies a surface area of about 100 hectares.
It is the main tourist spot in this particular region and has water sport facilities on the eastern side of the lake. There are also restaurants and accommodation facilities, located on the western side of the reservoir.
Tegal, is a town of medium size on the north coast. Jalan A. Yani, one of the busiest streets in the center of town, is lined with shops where one can find all kinds of articles, from basic household necessities to fashionable ready-to-wear clothing.
On the road to Slawiis the Tegal Plaza, a large shopping center with shops, a superm arket and a handful of movie theaters. The Alun-alun in front of the regent’s residence andoffice, is Tegal’s central town square. In small restaurants around the square one can get Kupat Glabed, a food specific of Tegal.
The Chinese influence has left an imprint on a number of aspects of life in Tegal. The town’s Chinese temple, known as Kienteng, is 250 years old. Wayang Kotehi, the ancient Chinese theater, is performed on its grounds during the Cap Go Meh holiday.
Tegal is located 60 kilometers to the north of Pekalongan, the second major town in the area. The grave of Amangkurat I, one of the early rulers of ancient Mataram, is found in Tegalarum village, not far away. The manm ade lake of the Cacaban reservoir, Moga, Tuwel and Bumijaya are popular holiday resorts in the mountains south of the town.
Pekalongan, 60 kilometers to the east of Tegal on the highway between Jakarta and Semarang, is famed for its specific style of batik, characterized by its bright colors and preference for floral motifs. Another well- known product of Pekalongan is Bambu Ridaka hand-woven cloth. The workshops where they are made can be seen at Jalan Klego 1/4. There is also a Batik Museum on Jalan Merdeka.
In the Pasav Kencana beach area is a recreat ion complex called Istana Dewi Ayu Lancar, which contains a swimming pool. Pekalongan has an old fortress dating from 1753, during the heyday of the Dutch East India Company. There is also a 19th century warehouse of the Netherlands Trading Company, NHM.
During the Syawalan festivities in the village Krapyak one can see performances of folk music and theater, such as gambus, keroncong, samprak, sintren, and kuntulan. Of special int erest is sintren, which displays occult and animistic elements.
Purwokerto, Batu Raden and surroundings
Purwokerto is a small city 75 meters above sea level, in the southern foothills of the mount ain Slamet. There is a small town nearby Purwokerto which is known for the paintings of landscapes and portraits, which it produces in bulk.
The volcano Slamet looks rather daunting from the distance, but also imposing. The crater at the summit is beautiful, and it is only one kilometer from the Plawangan post. However, there are no signs marking the route from Plawangan to the top, so hikers are advised to be prepared. Karang Jengkol village, at the foot of the mountain, in the district of Kutasari, makes a convenient departure point.
The Banyumas area in which Purwokerto is located is known as a producer of coconut palm sugar. Dalang Jemblung, Calung and Jatilan popular dances on occasion can be seen in this area. These dances and their accompaf lying music are known collectively as Banyumasan. The dance most often presented to visitors, however, is Ebeg, which contains occult elements. There are also the Kuda Lu,np ing horse dance, and Lais.
A cool and pleasant mountain holiday resort is Batu Raden, 14 kilometers north of Purwokerto on the southern slope of Mount Slamet. The resort is located at an elevation of 650 to 700 meters above sea level, where the temperature ranges from 20° to 23° Celcius.
One of the trees growing in the forests above Batu Raden is the giant fern known locally as Pakis Raksasa Purba. The facilities available include, apart from accommodation, restaurants, tennis courts, swimming pools, children’s playgrounds, hot water baths and plenty of parking space.
The Wana Wisata camping grounds, owne d and managed by the state forestry company Perurn Perhutani, are at the eastern side of the Batu Raden resort. In its vicinity are the villages Baur Agung, Bat ur Sengkala, Batur Golek and Batur Semede.
There are also the swimming pools of Panc uran Tujuh and Pancuran Tiga, near which are the hot water springs of Ketengger. Batu Raden is also known as a cattle-breeding center. Attractive sites around Batu Raden are Cend anasari mountain and the Kandalisada camping grounds and, further away, the Darm akrandenan cave.
Curug Cipendok is a scenic waterfall 21 kilometers from Purwokerto, at the foot of Mount Slamet. The waterfall is 80 meters high. Nearby are the Pancasara pools.
Near the village Tambak Negara, Rawalo district, 17 kilometers from Purwokerto, are found the mineral baths of Kalibacin. Accomm odation is available. Not far away is a pupp etry museum called the Museum Wayang.
Towards Purbalingga
Purbalingga is the capital of a regency, located 23 kilometers northeast of Purwokerto. The area boasts a number of attractive sites, such as: Bojongsari, four kilometers from Purbalingga or 22 kilometers from Purwokerto, which has a swimming pool anda beautiful scenery.
Walik,a resort in an attractive natural setting. There are bungalows for rent. About five kilometers from Purbalingga.
Gua Lawa (Bat Cave) is a new site developed for tourism near the village Sirawak, Reaja district, 20 kilometers north of Purbali ngga, on the eastern slope of Mount Slamet.
Ardi Lawet at Panusupan village, Rembang district, is the graveyard of Syeh Jumbu Karang, an Islamic leader of the 13th century. At a distance of nine kilometers from Purbalingga on the slope of Mount Slamet is the litt le village Bobot Sari village. It is the site of an attractive mountain resort amid beautiful scenery. Bungalows are available.
The General Sudirman Monument stands in Bandar Batang village, Rembang district, Purbalingga. The monument is dedicated to the memory of General Sudirman, the first comm ander of the Indonesian armed forces duri ng the war of independence.
Cilacap and surroundings
Cilacap is the capital of the Cilacap regency. It is also the only major port on the south coast of Java. The state oil company Pertamina has refineries, storage and port facilities in Cilacap.
There is a seaside recreation site called Teluk Penyu not far from the town. Near the harbor is the island of Nusa Kambangan, which is the site of a prison for hard-boiled criminal convicts.
Many Wijayakusuma plants grow in this area. Their beautiful flowers bloom for a single night, then wither and die. The Sedekah Laut fishermen’s offering feast and ceremonies are held once in a year at the seaside. Several attractive tourist spots exist around Cilacap, such as:
The Gunung Selok caves along the shore, facing the Indian Ocean. Around the caves a 126-hectare park has been built. The site is located 25 kilometers to the northeast of Cilacap.
Gunung Srandil is a string of hillocks 1.5 kilometers long, along the shore. The name Srandil actually refers to one particular hill in the group, which is a well known retreat for Buddhists who come there to meditate.
Along the footpath from Gunung Selok to Srandil are Jombe Pitu and Jombe Lima, hallowed places often visited by pilgrims, and some caves. The Selok Srandil area is much visited by pilgrims during certain times of the year, such as during Suro, the Javanese New Year.
Nusa Kambangan island occupies an area of about 30,000 hectares, ands known as a prisoner’s island,which it has been for many decades . What is less known is that the island’s surroundings are rich with beautifulscenery.
This island is located on the Central Java south coast, near the border with West Java. From afar, the island appears to be covered by jungle, although the raw material for cement is mined at the northeast side of the island. The forests here are the only remaining tropical forests on the island of Java.
During low tides, kelps are exposed among the remnants of coral reefs. In the forests here live black panthers, leopards and panthers, as well as many birds.
There is an old fort, I 000 square meters large, at one end of the strait, square-shaped and massive. Some of the walls have become overgrown with plants. The edifice has three floors. There are two wide spaces, four paths and three underground rooms on the first floor. Acannon not far from the complex is directed towards the strait that separates Nusa Kamb angan from the mainland. Nobody knows for certain by whom the fort was built, or when.
The Benteng Pendem, “buried fort”, at the south of Cilacap is a complex of fortifications. It is presumed to have been constructed at the time when Sultan Agung ruled in Mataram (1613-1645). There are people who believe, however, that it was built during the Dutch colo nial period. The complex lies at the foot of a hill on an area of about five hectares, and consists of four big bulwarks and seven smaller ones. It has a total of 41 rooms and long corr idors. A part of the edifice is buried. Inside the fort secret doors, guard posts, and some other rooms and barracks were found.
Teluk Penyu Beach is a seaside recreation Rice field, beautiful views along Java Island.
area not far from the “buried fort”. Far to the north are the cliffs of Karang Bolong, south of the town Gombong, and the Gunung Srand ii hills.
A pleasant little known place in the area is the Sendang Putri spring and pool, located in the Jeruk Legi district, about eight kilometers northeast of Cilacap.
In the Ajibarang limestone mountains, 35 kilometers west of Purwokerto caves containi ng stalactites and stalagmites. The biggest are Sertiwi, Lawn, Kemit, Sumur, Landak, Ular, Gedongan Jaran, Macan and Upas.
The fertile, beautiful land of Bumiayu lies in a valley flanked by the volcanoes Slamet and Ciremai near the West Java border. The three rivers Keruh, Kalierang and Karet cut through
it. The area is located approximately 20 kilometers from Ajibarang or 47 kilometers northwest of Purwokerto.
The town Bumiayu is located at an elevat ion of 300 meters above sea level. The average daily temperature is 230 to 30° Celsius.
Gombong, Kebumen and Purworejo
Gombong is a little town located about 60 kilometers east of Cilacap. There is a junction on the main road near the town, leading towards Sempor, about 5 kilometers away.
The man-made lake of the Sempor reserv oir is a popular resort where locals go to enj oy the fresh air as well as the various facilities that are available, such as motorboats, sam- pans (small boats), and restaurants. For those who want to stay longer, accommodation is available.
From the top of a hill on the west side of the lake one can view the surrounding panorama. From this vantage point, Gombong and the Indian Ocean are visible in the distance.
Karangbolong means “perforated rock”, a befitting name for a cliffside riddled with grottoes overlooking the ocean. The place is 13 kilometers south of Gombong, in the Karangbolong district, Kebumen regency. Swallows nest in caves in the footpath which one must pass to reach the hilltop above the cliffs, which is shady with teakwood trees. The view from there is outstanding.
The seashore at Karangbolong is defined by a wall of sheer limestone cliffs which stretches for a distance of about 500 meters along the shoreline and is riddled with caves, about 20 meters below the top. In those caves, thousands of swallows build their nests.
The best known of those caves are Gede, Celeleng, Dahar Lawa, Jengger, and Pengilon, all in the Karangbolong area. There are similar caves, however, in the Pasir area, such as Lengkong, Krendetan and Temon. And there is Nagasari cave at Karangduwur.
Gede cave at Karangbolong is at least 300 meters deep, and to those who can reach it, off ers a majestic view of the bay to the west. The cliffs here, though, rise 80 meters above the foaming surf and the rocks below.
People are known to have been gathering swallow’s nests from those cliffside caves since at least as early as 1746. Raffles, when he was Lieutenant-Governor of Java from 1811 to 1816, encouraged the continuation of the pract ice to earn money for the British state coffers.
Gathering the nests is a dangerous undertaking, which the nest gatherers of Karangbolong will not do unless offerings have been made to the goddess of the South Sea (the Indian Ocean), Nyi Roro Kidul. Elaborate rituals often accompany the event. When everything is ready, the men make the descent from the top of the cliffs to the caves on rope ladders.
Four rivers flow at the bottom of the caves:
the Sendang Mawar, the Sendang Kantil, the Puser Bumi and the Jombor.
Kebumen is a town of medium size, 21 kilometers to the east of Gombong. Places of visitor interest around Kebumen include:
Jatijajar cave near Ayah village, 40 kilometers from Kebumen. It contains not only stalactites and stalagmites, but also statues of legendary figures, which were placed there relatively recently. The cave was discovered in 1902. Petruk cave, also near Ayah, is what is known to geologists as a “swallow hole” — a vertical tunnel about 1,000 meters deep, situated on the top of a bill. To reach it, one must climb the 260 concrete steps that lead up to the park in which the cave is located.
Not much known but not less attractive are the beaches of Petanahan, Padalen, and Krakal, and also the Bulupitu area. The ICrakal swimming pool is 13 kilometers from Kebumen. Teluk Ayah bay, south of Jatijajar is an attractive beach on the Indian Ocean, and much visited by tourists.
There is also the Logending recreation forest at the seaside south of Ayah, which has facilities for camping, parking, and bathrooms.
Kutoarjo, 31 kilometers east of Kebunien, also has a number of recreation spots. Among them are:
Pasir Puncu, 12 kilometers south of Kutoarjo, is a beach with dunes and a small river, the Jail, running parallel to the coast across the beach before it discharges its water into the sea. Many amateur fishermen prefer to do their fishing in the untroubled water of this river rather than in the sea.
Coyo Indah is a holiday resort in the middle of a teakwood forest, near Karangtalilfl village, Purwokulon district, 20 kilometers south of purwodadi. The big attraction is a pool aside the Coyo river, but there are also sports facilities, such as tennis, basketball, badminton and volley ball courts. There are also a number of villas.
Purworejo is the name of a regency and of a town 40 kilometers from east of Kebumen. It is known in the area mainly for two things: its savory Gudeg Pendowo food and its Ndobalak folk dance. Quite recently, however, another attraction has been added: Seplawan Indah cave, in the Keligesing area.
Wadas Lintang reservoir, located between Purworejo and Kebumen, boasts the tallest dam in Indonesia, being 116 meters high.
Wonosobo
The regency of Wonosobo is located 145 kilometers tO the southwest of Semarang, Cent ral Java’s provincial capital. It is a mount ainousregion, with altitudes ranging from 275 to 2,100 meters above sea level. In the east are The Dieng Plateau and the temples. the mountains Sindoro and Sumbing, in the south Perahu and the Dieng Plateau. To the west is the Kulon mountain range.
About 17 kilometers to the east of Wonosobo is Pagerejo, a village in the Kertek district which is much visited by pilgrims during the month of Suro, who go there to bathe, wash and take home water from the Surodiogo spring, which they believe to be holy and invested with mystical powers. in the village Wonosobo, in the Tepus district, is apitlike cave named Tangkil — a “swallow hole” eight meters deep. One kilometer away is Ngobyak Cave, which has stalactites and stalagmites, bottom of the cave. About 40 meters further is a whole complex of caves, the three biggest being Ngingron, Ngoborafl and Mulo.
The Dieng Plateau temple site is located between the Wonosobo and Banjarnegara regencies. The plateau was formed many millennia ago by the eruption of a huge volcano. As the earth collapsed underneath the volcano, the plateau was formed. The earth beneath Dieng, however remains active until the present, as can be witnessed from the presence of working craters such as Sikidang, Sileri, Sikumbang, Timbang, Nila, Si Gluduk, Candradimuka, and Benteng.
in addition, there are Tampomas and Kawarasan Mountain which can be watche d from a distance of not closer than one kilometer. Hail often occurs during the rainy season. The Dieng Plateau is located at an altitude of about 2,600 meters above sea level. The soil here contains thousands of tons of sulfur and the land is fertile. The temperature on the plateau averages 5° to 17° Celsius. It is the only place in Java island where it snows occasionally. Some of Java’s oldest temples, dating from the early period of the Sanjaya Dynasty, are found here.
The name Dieng is derived from the ancient Kawi words di and hyang, and means “the abode of the gods”. The temples stand in several clusters on an open field, and have been given the names of wayang heroes, such as Bima, Arjuna, Gatotkaca, Puntadewa, Semar, Nakula, Sadewa, Srikandi, Dwarawati, Ngangsiran, and Aswatama. They are enclose d by walls of mountains, the tallest of which are Perahu, Sipandu, Pengamun, Gaj ahmungkur and Galang. A spring in the vicinit y, called Tuk Bimalukar, is the origin of the Serayu river. The four small lakes in the area are Dringo, Warna, Balekambang, and Pengilon.
Not less alluring are the Jalatunda well and Semar Cave. Two nature reserves are found in the area, Batu Semar and Gua Semar.
Further down the mountains, there is the Pengilon Lake Tourist Park, three kilometers from Wonosobo — a cool and pleasant mount ainresort in which one can bathe or swim in the hot water pools of Kalianget.
The Manyer reservoir, built in 1982, is the biggest man-made lake in Wonosobo. It is 54 meters deep and 79 hectares large, and is surr ounded by green, fertile mountains. The lake is located in the Garung district, 12 kilometers from Wonosobo.
Other resorts in the Wonosobo area are Bedakah reservoir and Sikarim waterfall. Mangli is a natural pool not far from Wonosobo.
Magelang
Magelang is a pleasant major Central Javanese town of medium size, about 64 kilometers from Wonosobo. It is known, besides for its pleasant climate and beautiful surroundings, for the fact that the Indonesian National Military Academy is located here. A popular destination for holiday makers is the village Suropati, in the Kajoraan district in the foothills of the mountain Sumbing. The district, visible from Magelang, is known for its garlic and cabbages, which are among the best in the area. Located in the same district is the Curug Silawe waterfall.
Kalibening is a resort eight kilometers from Magelang, with three swimming poois fed by a clear stream that snakes its way among huge banyan trees as it rushes down the hills.
Gunung Tidar or Mount Tidar is, as folklore has it, the nail that keeps Java from getting adrift in the surrounding seas. Parks, gardens and landscaped pathways add to the attractiveness of the scenery around this popular holiday resort.
A curious relic of ancient history called Candi Selogriyo is foundat Citran village, at the foot of the mountain Gandu, in the shape of stone objects resembling a house and a set of garnelan percussion instruments.
Candi Mendut is a small Buddhist temple 11 kilometers from Magelang, built by Indra, the first king of the Syailendra Dynasty at around the eightor ninth century AD. The chambers contain two statues: one of Cakyamurti sitting cross-legged on a pedestal, and another one of Maitreya, the Bodhisatwa redeemer of mankind. Bas-reliefs cover parts of the walls.
About one kilometer from Mendut is Pawon, which also contains a Buddha statue.
The reliefs carved on the wall seem to indicate that Pawon was built before the Borobudur and could have contained the ashes of a deceased king.
The great Borobudur Buddhist sanctuary is about five kilometers from Magelang, or about 42 kilometers from Yogyakarta. It is said to be one of the eight wonders of the world. This gigantic sanctuary is believed to have been built in the eight or ninth century by King Samarottungga on a hill. Many thousands of the finest of bas-reliefs in stone ever found in Java are carved on its balustrades, telling the life story of the Buddha.
In the yard, at one side of the temple, grows a bodhi tree, of the same species under which Buddha Gautama is said to first have received his enlightenment. Once a year, Indonesian Buddhist celebrate Waicak Day on this city. Borobudur is now part of a vast archaeological park, designed to protect the sanctuary and to serve as a center for archaeological studies by anyone interested.
The Diponegoro Museum keeps alive the memory of Prince Diponegoro, a national hero and nobleman at the court of Yogyakarta, who was tricked and arrested by the Dutch in this house in 1830 to end a five-year guerrilla war against their authority. The museum contains some of the authentic pieces of furniture used at that time.
Borobudur
Borobudur the biggest and most magnificent monument to Mahayana Budd hism of its kind ever built in Indonesia or in the world, is believed to have been builtin the eighth or ninth centuryA,D. by rulers of the southern Central Javanese Syailendrà Dynasty — probably lndra, or King San ggramadananjaya or Samarott ungga, who ruled from8l2 to 832 A.D.
The shrine has nine square terraces and a circular top one, all of which except the highest are enclosed by walls, or massive, tall balustrades, covered with bus-reliefs. The whole massive edifice covers a hillock overlooking the serene southern Central Javanese plains, known as the Garden of Java.
Borobudur is 42 meters high, and each of the sides of the lowest terrace is 113 meters oog The I4OO stone slabs that cover the balustrades are adorned with basreliefs illustraring life according to the tenets of Mahayana Buddhism.
Not all parts of the monumental shrine can nowadays be seen. Left buried under layers of earth is what is known as Rorobudur’s “bidden foot”, on which tin- finished reliefs illustrate-the Kwnadlu#u, or the world of carnal passion.
The second terrace up to the sixth cons tiute what maybe regarded as the main body of the shrine, The reliefs here depict the Rupadathu, or the world of fomi. The seventh terrace up to the ninth illustrate the Aruphcrdathu, or the world of formlessness. The top terrace, on which the great bell-like supa stands, is circular in shape and is left totally unadorned.
The whole of borobudur resembles a gigantic stupa. It is, in fact believed to be a huge mondale, or a structure to assist meditation. On quiet days, as we make our ascent terrace by terrace, strolling along the corridors between the balustrades while studying the stone reliefs, it is as if we see life unfold around us, The balustrades prevent our contemplations from being distracted. There is nothing but the reliefs and tl-e sky above. As we come to the last terrace underneath the great stupa, the enclosing walls are suddenly gone. There are no more reliefs on the black lavastone panels. We are alone with the sky above us and the green, gentle undulating plains far below, stretching towards the mountains and the sea. The sensation is one of total release and serenity.
The assumption that Borobudur was built at around the eight or ninth century was arrived at after a study of an uiscription in Palawa, a script much in use at around that period, which archaeologists found on a panel on the bidden foot.
According to a historian named J, de Casparis, the name Borobudur is derived from the Sanskrit word sabharatabudhara.
Borobudur has undergone several restorations since itsdiscovery by Raffles in 1814. The damage which it had suffered over the many decades of its existence was severe. In 1548, for example, a tremendous earthquake that rocked Java and must have caused the final collapse of the monument.
In 1709, as far as is known, it was known merely as Borobudur Hill. The whole monument was covered with earth and appeared as nothing more than a hill, overgrown with bushes and weeds.
It received some attention after it was found by Raffles, the Lieutenant-Governor of Java, in 1814 while he making a stop on a trip to Semarang. Raffles obtained a report according to which there existed a great monument in the Bumisegoro area, called Borobudur.
He instructed the Dutchman H.C. Cornelius make a study of the site, but nothing much was apparently done at that time. In 1835, the resident of Kedu, Hortman, took the initiative to clean up temple’s surroundings so that at least a part of the shrine became visible.
Several times up to 1802, experts urged the authorities to restore the shrine. One of the proposals called for the safekeeping of the reliefs in a special museum. Interest, however, wane d and Borobudur was again in danger of being forgotten.
In 1885, however, Borobudur attracted the public’s attention once again when J.W. Ijzerman, a Dutch army engineer, found the reliefs of the Mahakarmawibangga on the hidden foot of the temple. There were 166 reliefs on the hidden foot, some of them no more than outlines.
In 1896, while many people worried about the fate of Borobudur, officials presented a whole load of the temple’s relief to the visiting Thai monarch, King Chulalongkorn. The gift included five Buddha statues, two lions, a makaro (gargoyle), some kalanwkara gateway ornaments, parts of the stairways, and a very unusual giant gopala statue, taken from Dagi Hill, near Borobudur.
Only in 1900 did the Dutch authorities establish a renovation committee for Borobudur. One member of this committee recommended that a huge zinc roof on 400 iron pillars be constructed over the temple to protect it against the elements. The proposal was rejected.
In 1905, a plan for the most essential measures to restoreand protect Borobudur was adopted. Under the supervision of Th. van Erp, the first actual restoration job was begun. By 1911, Borobudur was in better shape, but more was needed. In the following years and decades, up to the period after Indonesia had acquired its national independence, committee after committee was formed.
In 1955, the Indonesian government submitted a proposal to Unesco, the United Nat ions Educational and Scientific Commission, to save Borobudur and other temple sites in Indonesia. The government of Indonesia itself provided part of the needed funds.
In 1971, Unesco held its first meeting in Yogyakarta to discuss the plans. In 1973, the President officially launched the restoration efforts. In 1983, finally, precisely 10 years later, the job was completed. Today, Borobudur stands strong on its new foundation, ready to face the elements for another 1,000 years.
Solo
Solo, or Surakarta, was formerly the center of the Surakarta sultanate — a self-ruling terr itory ruled by a sultan, who in the case of Solo was called a sunan, from the Javanese word susuhunan, meaning “the exalted one”.
The sultanate no longer exists, and Solo has become the capital of an ordinary regency. The remains of the sultanate’s heyday, however, can still be found in and around the old royal palace, called kraton. Besides the kraton of Surakarta, there is also the court, or pun, of the Mangkunegaran principality. Both are open to the public.
Solo is one of the centers of Javanese culture. Dances and wayang shadow plays, both accompanied by the game/an percussion orchestra, are often performed for visitors.
Among the well known and much visited tourist spots of Solo are the textile market of Kiewer and the entertainment park Sriwedari. There are three kinds of wayang known in Solo: wayang wong, which is traditional Javanese dance theater, wayang golek, which uses wooden puppets, and wayang ku/it, the classic leather puppet show. Commonly, the leather puppet show is held from 9.00 p.m. to 5.00 am. The story is taken from either the Ramayana or the Mahabharata, the two great Hindu epics. The wooden puppet show takes its repertoire from the history of Islam in Java.
In Solo, the gerebeg ceremony is held three times a year, on Islamic holidays. The biggest is the Gerebeg Mulud. Gerebeg is also held at the end of sekaten public fair held in alun-alun square in front of the kraton and the Grand Mosque. Solo shares the same tradition as Yogyakarta in the matter of the sekaten and gerebeg events.
Suran in Solo is the ceremony in which the royal heirlooms of the sultan and the Mangkunegaran principality are brought in procession around the two palace grounds. This ceremony is held on the first day of Suro, the Javanese New Year.
The Palace of Solo is the leading tourism destination in the city. Among the pavilions of the Solo kraton is one called the Bangsal Pangrawit. This pavilion now houses the palace museum, which contains objects related to theSolo sultanate. The Sasono Mulyo pavilion is where dance classes are held.
The Puri Mangkunegaran was built in the 18th century on a one-kilometer lot of land. The principality was founded by Raden Mas Said in 1757. Many antiquities and valuables are kept in a special museum on the palace grounds. The court is built in grand traditional Javanese style, and has basically two sections:
In main courtyard facing the main gateway is the grand pavilion, built in a style known as joglo. The wide roof of the pavilion, which is open on all four sides, rests on four main (central) pillars and many smaller ones. This space is used for receiving honored guests and for the holding of important ceremonies. Dances are also performed here.
A Javanese music ensemble called Kyai Kenyut Mesem, famous for its pleasant sound, is kept in this grand pavilion.
The second, main section is the inner hail, called Dalem, which is where the private quarters of the Prince Mangkunegoro are located. This is where the more private family ceremonies are held. The Krobongan is a ceremonial bedchamber, located in the center of the Dalem and held sacrosanct.
A wayang beber screen, a form of wayang rarely seen elsewhere today, is kept in a room at the back of the Dalem together with other heirlooms.
The Kraton, the sunan’s palace, was built in 1745 by Paku Buwono 11, the ruler of what was at that time still the kingdom of Mataram. Inside the palace walls is, a singular structure known as the Panggung Songo Buwono, a tower in the corner of the palace yard, where the ruler has his meetings with the goddess of the South Sea, Nyi Loro Kidul.
The Museum Radya Pustaka is located on Jalan Slamet Riyadi. In the front yard is a life- size statue of Ronggowarsito, a famous Javanese poet of the past, and anold cannon. The museum has a good collection of antiq uities, including statues of the goddess Loro Jonggrang, Shiva, and a Bodhisatwa.
Solo’s Press Museum is the only one of its kind in Indonesia. It has collections of newspapers, magazines, and bulletins from the colonial period to the present.
Sriwedari is a popular recreation park with a zoo, several theaters, and gardens. Restaurants line the sides of the park. A pond with a pavilion in the middle can be found in the southern parts of the park. Restaurants and souvenir shops line the sides.
Bale Kambang is a park with shady trees, a pool and stages for shows during the night. It is located on Jalan Bale Kambang.
The Tirtayasa pool is pleasant for swimming. It is located on Jalan Kolonel Sutarto. A public swimming pool has also been built in Tanjung Puri
The National Monument or Candle Monument pays homage to the National Awakening Day, May 20. Public gatherings to commemorate the event are usually held in the front of the monument. It is located on Jalan Dr. Wahidin, in the Penumping area.
Jurug Permai Park is a recreation center, also used as an arena of motor racing. The place has a camping site located alongside the Bengawan Soloriver. Nearby is a big pond called Telaga Tirta Ria, equipped with boats, canoes and water bicycles for rent. At one side of the park is a stage, and restaurants are available. The park is located on Jalan Kolonel Sutarto.
Loji Gandrung is a building on Jalan Slamet Riyadi, built in a quaint style. Its walls are decorated with the porcelain dishes. The building is presently used as a governent office and guesthouse.
Gunung Kemukus is a hill 25 kilometers from Solo. It is located at an altitude of a few hundred meters above sea level. A well is found in the vicinity. On the top of the hill is a building containing three graves covered by mosquito nets. One of them is said to be the grave of Pan geran Samudera and his mother, Dewi Ontrowulan. The other grave belongs to a follower of Pangeran Samudera.
Sangiran is a village located 18 kilometers from Solo. Fossils of hominids, animals and plants form prehistoric times were found here. This area is well known to anthropologists and geologists.
The Pleistocem Museum of Sangiran is found nearby. It contains many fossils of plants and animals.
Candi Sewu is a group of 250 Buddhist temples. The biggest temple lies in the middle and is surrounded by smaller ones. It is located 50 kilometers from Solo. Sajiwan temple is found nearby.
Kali Jambe, 14 kilometers from Solo, has fossils of ancient animals and hominids, believe d at least 2,000,000 years old. There is also a museum on the site. The grave of Pangeran Samudera is located to the north of the Kali Jambi river and is much visited by pilgrims, especially on certain auspicious days.
The town Sragen is the capital city of a regency and is 31 kilometers northeast of Solo. In the vicinity are the hot water springs of Ngawut. The town Karang Anyar is located about 14 kilometers southeast of Solo. Nearby is the sugar milk Tasik Madu.
Tawangmangu is a mountains resort with a fresh climate. It is located at a height of 1,200 meters above sea level, on the slope of Mount Lawu. Tawangmanggu has all kinds of facilities, including camping grounds and a cross country route.
The resort of Sawangan can be reached from Tawangmangu, through Cemara Sewu. Beside the fresh climate, one can enjoy the beautiful scenery. The area is known for its vegetables. Horses can be hired from localinhabitants.
Curug Sewu waterfall or Grojogan Sewu is located 40 kilometers from Karang Anyar in the direction of Temanggung, in the south. The altitude here is 400 meters above sea level. The waterfall gushes down from three terraces, respectively 36 meters, 18 meters, and 28 meters high. The visitor can go below the last stage to see three springs. There are also swimming pools, restaurants, hotels and meeting halls.
Nearby a second waterfall is a spring coming from underneath a big black stone. This spring is called Tuk Lanang.
Typical Ba1ks of Indonesia
It is not clear where our batiks began. However, in the 10th century, it apareflt1y already existed, Premier (31*âah Mada of M*pahil wore batlictli the (hinging pattern to battle. Thft pattern is belicved to be inbued with magical powers that can protect the wearer against calamities.
Thousands of batik patterns are found today. Batik is nowadays used før blouses, shirts adevenutains, which deviates from tradition in the Javanese language, mba means ‘to makó’, and tik means dot. To make batik, then, means “to make dots’s. Although batik can noways be bought at low ),rices, modern workshops do produce quality batik,
These are basically two types of traditional batiks nameiytht hand-made, and the printed, the latter with patterns that are stamped on the cloth. However, in this process fine dots and lines still has to be done by hand.
The stages involved in batik making are quite tedious. First, a piece of pre-treated white cotton cloth is washed to rentove any kind of unwanted matter. After drying and ironing, the outlines of the selected pattern is traced out with a pencil. Then With wax, using a tiny spouted container called a cant ing. The blank spaces are then filled in with wax. Thea, the time dots are applied.
To paint a batik cloth is not like draw- lag a painting on canvas. Cølors are app lied through dying, not through placing them onto the cloth’s surface. Pach time a certain colc has to be applied, he cloth is immersed is the dye. The surfaces not to be colored are covered with wax. The more colors desired, the more often the process has to be repeated
Batiks made in Solo and Yogya traditionally are colored blue, symbolizing the earth, brown, symbolizing fire, and white, symbolizing water and air. As a whole, these colors symbolize life.
The first color applied is indigo blue. The color brown is applied at the second stage. White is the color of the cotton cloth. That is why the wax mustadhere lirmly to the cloth and not come of during dyeing. A cold dyeing process is used. In the past, natural dyes were used. Nowadays, chemical dyes are preferred for practical reasons.
While batiks from Yogya and Solo are tradition-bound, those from the coastal areas such as Cirebon and Pekalongan are contemporary and colorful. Their patterns are more varied, have been influenced by outside elements through trade contacts.
Batiks from the coastal areas are brighter, whereas these of Yogya and Solo are subdued. Among many kinds of batik, at least five main types can be distinguished: Wonogiren, Ukel, Simetris, Lunglungan, and Terang Bulan (of the coastal areas). Popular patterns are:
Parang, Parang Rusak, Parang Curigo, Parang Tompel and many others.
In the past, Parang was only worn by royalty and the nobility. However, such traditions have long been left behind. Batik no longer belongs to the Javanese people exclusively, but has come to belong to all of Indonesians and to the world.
Wonogiri Klaten Boyolalj
Wonogiri is a small town, south of which is Karang Gupito Beach, on the Indian Ocean. The Labuhan ceremony is held here each year in the month Suro. It is located 32 kilometers from Solo. There is a big boulder called Watu Semar.
The Gajah Mungkur dam is located near Sendang village, about four kilometers from the town. There is a pier for boats, which you can hire to take you around the lake. Available also are facilities for water skiing and fishing. In the southern part is an open field for flying kites while admiring the scenery around the dam.
The Wonogiri Dam is a huge dam, lined by stone walls, It is located 20 kilometers from Solo.
Sonorejo is a small village northwest to Sukoharjo, not far from the Bengawan Solo river, where people make leather dolls, fans, lamp caps, and many other leather items. It is a skill that has been handed down from generation to generation.
Far south of Wonogiri, past Baturetno, is the Cave of Tabuhan (Giriwoyo). Inside the cave stone axes 5,000 years old were found.
Kiaten is the capital of a regency which thrives on the sugar industry. Many pilgrims visit the grave of Sunan Bayat (one of the nine early Islamic preachers. In Jatinom, the traditional ceremony of Sebaran Apem Jaquwiyu is held each year. Rice-flour cakes are given out to the people. There is the grave of a poet of the Solo royal palace, Ronggo Warsito, and a resort called Rowo Jombar, about 32 kilometers from Solo towards the northwest. In Klaten, there is the Sugar Museum.
Jimbong is a holiday resort with many parks and small lakes. There is a playground for children. Ten minutes from Kiaten by bus.
Deles is a village 25 kilometers to the west of Klaten, on the slope of mount Merapi 1,250 meters above sea level. A bungalow by name of Wonderful Deles caters to visitors.
Merak Temple is 15 kilometer north of Klaten. From the sugar mill Gondang Baru in Jogonalan, it is six kilometers to the north. Under the shady trees are hundreds of stones, whose original place can hardly be traced anymore. Merak, with its four shrines, are leftovers from the Hindu-Javanese period, and was found in 1924.
Boyolali, 20 kilometers south of Solo has two major sites of interest. The first is the grave of the poet Josodipuro I. The second is the Umbul Pengging pool. Another tourist spot in the vicinity is Selo, a small town 21 kilometers from Boyolali. It has beautiful scenery and adequate lodgings. It was once a holiday resort of the Sunan, who built a bungalow there. Only thc ruins are left.
Near Selo are the Cengklik Dam, and Urnb ul Latar Spring in Boyolali, as well as the grave of Syeh Maolana Mahgribi (Pantaran) of Ampel. This complex lies at the slope of the mountain Merbabu and has a cool climate.
In Blabak is a pulp mill. The town can be reached from Boyolali and Solo, over a pass in between the mountains Merapi and Merbabu. The road is steep, but the sights are beautiful. From Blabak, the crater of Mount Merapi is visible. Observation posts have been set up along the way to Merapi, to monitor the volcano’s activity.
Salatiga Temanggung
Salatiga is a small town on the slope of Mount Merbabu. It is located at an elevation of 600 meters above sea level, 48 kilometers from Semarang. The weather here is cool and the atmosphere is calm. The town has a nice swimming pool named Kalitaman. About six kilometers to the west is a swimming pool called N{uncul, located at the foot of the Telomoyo mountain.
Rawa Pening is a tranquil lake with beautiful scenery. The water provides the power that moves an electricity generating A market at Salatiga. plant. Not very far away is the ancient Hindu temple complex of Gedungsanga, built by descendants of King Sanjaya.
The recreation park of Tuk Songo and a camping site are found in Kopeng, 15 kilometers from Salatiga. Located 1,500 meters above sea level on the slope of Mount Mer. babu, Kopeng has a cool climate with temperatures reaching as law as 10°Celsius. Kopeng, which lies in the middle of vegetable and flower gardens, is a very popular holiday resort.
Teugaran, nine kilometers from Kopeng, is known due to the presence there of Kiero Temple. The Pasundan ceremony and the Selikuran (the 21st day of Ramadhan) are big events.
Tuntang is a small town 480 meters above sea level, located between Salatiga and Bawen. The Tuntang electric power plant, fed by water from Rawa Pening, supplies a good section of Central Java with electricity.
Ambarawa, is a town 514 meters above sea level. In this town, where the Dutch forces were at one time has been besieged by the Indone sians during the war of independence, is the Palangan Monument, to commemorate the event. Tuntang is 23 kilometers northwest of Salatiga.
Before World War II, Ambarawa was the transit point for trains coming from various parts of Java. Today, few trains stop at Amb arawa. Thetown, however serves the only cog-railway still extant in Java. Tourists can arrange a ride upon request.
Ambarawa’s old railway station, built in 1873. Today, it houses the Ambarawa Railway Museum. Stored here are 25 old-fashioned locomotives, remainders from the Dutch period, and no longer running. The oldest locomotive ran for the first time in 1891. The town also has anold Dutch fortress.
Bandungan is located north of Ambarawa, and 980 meters above sea level. This cool resort is excellent for recreation and relaxing. There is a swimming pool, where annual sheep fights and a fashion show under the name Holiday in Bandungan, are held.
Ungaran is a town 318 meters above sea level. There is a Dutch fortress dating from 1786, in one of whose cells Prince Diponegoro was once imprisoned. In the vicinity are a few old hallowed graves. There arealso the Rejo Temple an ancient edifice resembling a stone coffin, and the nature reserve Suroloyo, inside which is the Semiran waterfall.
Gedungsanga, 10 kilometers from Ambarawa, on the slope of the Ungaran mount ain, is a complex of nine temples scattered in the hills. They are among the oldest in Java and could be related to the temples on Dieng. Acc ording to E.B. Vogler, these temples were built in the 9th century A.D. Nearby is a hot-water spring, known as the Dasamuka Crater.
Temanggung is the capital of a regency, 42 kilometers northeast of Wonosobo. Good recreation sites are:
Pakitan, which is a small town in the Temanggung area. It is situated between hills and has a cool climate. Located three kilometers from Wonosobo. A fine swimming pool with clear water is available. In January and February farmers harvest their klengkeng fruits. Temanggung is famous for these small, sweet fruits.
The Gondosuli Temple is a temple newly discovered relic of history, located 13 kilometers from Temanggung, and not far from Parakan.
Kiedung is a highly scenic pass between the volcanoes Sumbing and Sindoro. Located 20 kilometers from Temanggung, this area is excellent for relaxing and mountaineering. Bungalows and lodgings are available. Visitors to the area’s tobacco plantations are welcome.
Jumprit is the name of a swimming pool on the slope of Mount Ungaran. The water is cool and clear and the scenery beautiful. The pool is 22 kilometers from Temanggung. Somewhere in the surroundings are the graves of Kyai and Nyai Emprit.
At Prumpung, on the main road between Magelang and Muntilan, stone statues are made by skilled hands. The statue of Prabu Gupolo is as big as an elephant. Stone gates, grave stones, and garden lanterns are made by village sculptors. Sculpting is a major sourcc of income for the people at Prumpung, Puncak Rejo and Tegowarno. The biggest producer of stone ornaments in Java, the area’s products are known as far as Australia and Holland. Prabu Gupolo statues and lanterns are in great demand. There are about 600 sculptors in Prumpung and the surrounding villages.
Sukuh Temple, in the village of Subur, Temanggung district, 35 kilometers from Solo, is built like a Maya stepped pyramid and is believed to have been built at around the time when the glory of Majapahit was already wani ng. It’s reliefs do not follow the pattern norm ally found on Hindu temples. This temple displays slightly erotic elements in the shape of a phallus and womb.
Not so far away, in Giribangun and Girilayu, lie the graves of the princes of Mangkunegaran.
Semarang
Semarang is the capital of the province of Central Java. Semarang is divided into two parts the upper and the lower. The lower part covers the .harbor and business areas. This is where most government and private offices, hotels, stores, markets and factories are located. The upper part covers Candi Lama and Candi Baru in the hilly areas in the south. Johar Market is the market place.
The Youth Monument, built in May 1953 on Jalan Pemuda istheplacewhereeveryyearabattleagainsttheJapaneseoccupationforceson,October14 and 15, 1945 is commemorated.
In the lower part of the city, are many buildings dating from the 18th and 19th cent uries, like the church and trading office in the Pekojan and Gunung Pinggir areas.
Five kilometers from the center of the city is Gedung Batu, a Chinese temple in the hills. Inside the temple is a big ship’s anchor. Another Chinese temple is the Thay Kak Sie, in Gunung Lombok. There are the remains of anold Dutch fort near Poncol Station. Johar Market (Ja’i Market), in the center of the cit y, attracts many visitors. During the Idul Adha Islamic Day of Sacrife, the Dug-dor feast is held near the Grand Mosque in the area.
Candi Lama and Candi Baru are the newer residential areas in the upper part of the city. Around here, Puala Tirang (Bergota), a site from the Hindu era, the fortifications of Prince Puger, a military leader of Mataram, and the grave of Kyai Pandan Arang and Kyai Saleh, attract many visitors.
Candi Baru offers a wide vista of the city and the sea.
Lele Park, in the southern part of the city, has a hot water spring and shady trees.
The Diponegoro Recreation Park at Jalan H. Agus Salim is near the National Recreation Park. Facilities include playgrounds for the children, a fantasy land, and a stage for shows.
The museum on Jalan Abdul Rachman Saleh has fossils of ancient hominids and animals. In Semarang, there is also a museum of herbs.
Lawang Sewu opposite the Youth Monument, was built in the colonial era, and was used as the offices of the state-owned Railway Company. Lawang Sewu means “Thousand Doors.”
Blenduk Church was built in the 18th cent ury (1753) and is still functioning. The roads around the church resembled those found in towns in Holland. Night life at Simpang Lima is interesting. Vendors offer all kinds of foods and drinks. Early in the morning, many people exercise and jog along the streets.
Tegal Wareng is a center for public entert ainment where shows are performed, including wayang, ketoprak, reog, and band music. There are also restaurants and souvenir shops.
The Baau Sam Po Kong Building is near the south end of Ahmad Yani Airport, and is constructed in Chinese architectural style. A grave inside the building is said to be that of Admiral Moeslem Mohammad Cheng Ho or Sam Po Tao Lang, who shipwrecked together with his followers in the sea near Jepara.
The pier is much visited during sunset. A lighthouse is visible in the distance. Sail boats can be rented. Restaurant sell typical Semarang foods.
The city zoo is inside Heroes Park at Girl Tunggal, Jalan Sriwijaya.
The Penggoda Hawa Park has various species of snakes. There is a small artificial lake for boating.
Gombel on the road to Ungaran, is a favorite look-out post where people go in the evening to enjoy the fresh air and theview of Semarang and Tanjung Emas harbor down below. There are a swimming pool, restaurants and hotels in the vicinity.
Wato Wong, 14 kilometers from Semarang, is a gong-shaped big stone which lies at the road-side. Nearby is a Buddhist temple. The atmosphere is pleasant and calm.
The People’s Recreation Park (THR) is where people go for entertainments. It is located on Jalan Sriwijaya and has an adjoining zoo, a parking lot place, a pool, a lake and ketoprak shows at night. There is also a playground for children. Snakes and alligators from Lele Park are kept in this park, which is planned to become a National Reptile Park. On holidays, the popular dances are performe d here.
Demak
The Grand Mosque of Demak, a town 26 kilometers east of Semarang, was built in the 15th century by the nine Wall, early Islamic leaders. The roof of the mosque rests on four big pifiars, one of which is said to have been built of chips of wood. North of the mosque is the grave of the Demak kings. At certain times of the year, particularly on the Islamic Day of sacrifice (Idul Adha) this mosque is very crowded with pilgrims.
Walahan, a village 19 kilometers from Demak, has two old Chinese temples which every year attract thousands of Chinese pilgrims.
Jepara and surrounding
Jepara, 35 kilometers northwest of Kudus, or 90 kilometers from Semarang on the northern coast of Central Java, is famous for its wood carvings. It is also famous as the birth place of Raden Ajeng Kartini, a pioneer of the emancipation movement for women.
The regency of Jepara occupies an area of 950 square kilometers and is inhabited by 650,000 people, most of whom are farmers.
Jepara is also known for its plait work Troso textiles, ceramics and Monel handicrafts.
The Kartini Museum contains the personal belongings of that popular feminist leader.
The Mosque of Mantingan about eight kilometers south of Jepara, is the second-oldest in Java after the Demak Mosque.It was built in 1559, and is unique in its ornamentations. The building resembles a Chinese temple, but the entrance gate has Hindu elements, like those found on gates in Bali.
Behind the Mantingan Mosque is the grave of Princess Kalinyamat. The Princess Kalinyamat was the younger sister of Sunan Prawoto, the fourth Sultan of Demak. An extraordinary woman, she once leda fleet to attack the Portuguese in Malacca.
Anold Dutch fort lies in the hills of Jepara countryside. Near the ruins of the fortress lie the graves of Dutch soldiers. Among them is that of Captain Tack, who was killed in a battle.
A Portuguese fortress once stood near the village of Banyumanis, in the district of Keli ng, 48 kilometers northeast of Jepara. Only a meter-high wall remains. From the site of the ruins one gets a beautiful view of the Java sea.
The beach in this area is rocky, covered with slabs of stone that have been polished by the waves for many centuries.
In the district of Keling are the remains of the Kalingga kingdom, which was ruled by the popular Queen of Sirna. Somewhere near the old fortress is Tritip Cave, located in a dry field. From the distance, the entrance looks like the snout of a giant lizard.
Another beautiful place is Donorejo Beach, near Banyumanis village. It is much visited by people coming from Demak, Kudus, Pati and Semarang, and sometimes even from Bandung and Jakarta. Donorejo Beach is 50 kilometers northeast of Jepara.
Mandalika Island lies in front of Donorej o Beach, 800 meters out in the sea. From the hills of Java’s mainland, Mandalika looks like a floating object on the sea’s surface. This small island can easily be circumnavigated in five hours. It is uninhabited
There is only one guard house. Plants grow in the wild. Small animals, mainly birds, live undisturbed. Some reptiles are also found here. We can visit this island by boat. The trip costs only a few hundred rupiah. Not far from Donorejo Beach, more to the east, about two kilometers away, is Mount Clering.
Tahunan and Belakanggunung are centers of wood carving. They are located about three kilometers from Jepara. Here you can see the carvers at work, making all kinds of things, from whole walls to simple utensils.
The Forest of Curug Sewu is located in Kend al, 28 kilometers west of Semarang. This is a forest on a hilly area with cool weather and green shady trees. The site is about 400 meters above sea level. There are three waterfalls and two caves, known as Tretes and Gentung.
The Karimunjava Islands
The Karimunjava group consists of 27 islands located in the Java Sea north of the Province of Central Java. The group constitutes one of the districts of the Jepara Regency.
The biggest island, Kariniunjava is less than three square kilometers large.
Karimunjava is ideal for hunting because it has plenty of forests, which are inhabited by deer, birds and other forms of wildlife in great numbers. Turtles, coral fishes and reefs along the beaches add to the islands’ allure.
Aside from Karimunjava, important islands are Alang alang, Nyamuk, Batulawang, Telaga, Genting, Mrican, Kemujan and Parang.
The district of Karimunjava includes three townships: Parang, Kemujan and Karimunjava.
The island group is inhabited by 7,000 people, distributed over several villages. A decade ago, there were only about one thousand people on the islands, consisting of Malay’s, Javanese and Bugis people, plus a number of others.
The people of Karimunjava live from coconut farming and fishing. Most live along the coasts. In the Kemujan area, houses are built on platforms. Besides that of the Javanese, the Bugis influence is strong and colors the way of live of people in Karimunjava.
The first person to have civilized these islands was Prince Nyamplungan, the son of Sunan Kudus, so legend has it. The prince fled the Javanese mainland after refusing to adopt Islam.
The grave of Prince Nyamplungan can still be found near the village Legon Cikmas Nyamplungan. His grave is venerated by the people. The prince himself is believed to be the island’s guardian.
Kamujan Island is only one kilometer away from Karimunjava. The swamps along the island’s coasts are infested with alligators. There is a wildlife reserve to protect the snakes which have inhabited the island for centuries. The snakes are poisonous and are distinguishe d by brown dots on their skin. They reach a length of one meter when fully grown.
On Menjangan Island, in an area one bee- tare large, grow thousands of coconut trees. Hundreds of people live there as coconut farmers and fishermen. The copra trade is the most important source of life lihood.
The island of Karimunjava is linked with Jepara by motor boats. The distance between Karimunjava and Jepara is 60 kilometers. The best time to cross the existance is between the months August and November, when the wind is low and sea calm. During the monsoon, from January to February, the wind is strong and the sea rough.
Kudus, Pati and Rembang
Kudus is 50 kilometers from Semarang, or 24 kilometers from Demak. One of the relics of the early days of Islam is the mosque with its 20-meter-high tower (The Mosque of Sunan Kudus). The red brick tower was presumably built in 1685. The grave of Sunan Kudus is in the back yard of the mosque. This city is nowadays famous for its clove cigarettes industry. The town has a cigarette museum.
The Cob Amusement Park lies at the foot of the mountain Muria, 18 kilometers from Kudus. The place is 700 meters above sea level. Bungalows arc available. From Cob, one can climb to the peak of Mount Muria, or pay a visit to the grave of Sunan Muria, which is located in the yard of an old mosque. Pilgrims come here especially on pahing Fridays in the month Suro.
After walking for half an hour to the north, one comes to a recreation resort called Montel. There is a waterfall 53 meters high, called the Montel waterfall. The temperature es is between
24°C and 26°Celsius.
The Kretek Cigarette Museum is in the village Getas Pejatan, in the district of Jati Kudus.
A grand specimen of a traditional house of Kudus serves as a museum. It has ornately carve d walls and a steep roof. The carved panels are regularly cleaned with tobacco or cloves dipped water and mixed with the sap of banana trunks. The patterns of Kudus carvings are mostly floral and geometric.
One prominent skilled carver, whose grave is still found in the village Sunggingan, was Tee Ling Sing.
Pati, 23 kilometers from Kudus, is a small town with plenty of holiday resorts in its surr oundings. Among them are Jolong Panorama on the slope of Muria. South of Pati are the Juwono River Valley, Solomoro Dam and Mount Rowo, for water sports and recreat ion. Other resorts are Dukuh Sekti in the Tayu Beach area, the Red Cave and Lowo Cave in the Sukolibo area.
Sendang Sani, four kilometers from Pati, is a lake with turtles. According to legend, the turtles are reincarnations of Sunan Kalijogo, and therefore holy. Near Sendang is the grave of Adi Pati Pragolo.
Lawang kabo Nyambrang is a big old- fashioned gate, made of wood. It is said to be a remainder of the Majapahit kingdom and stands four kilometers to the north of Pati.
Seprapat Island, also called the Monkey Kingdom, is a small delta at the mouth of the Silugonggo river, It is located 14 kilometers from Pati and is inhabited by monkeys. Nearby is the grave of Ki Ludang, a place visited by pilgrims in search of fast fortunes.
Jobong, 18 kilometersfrom Pati, is a mount ain resort. There is the coffee plantation with bungalows for rent.Rembang is located 18 kilometers from Juwono. Popular holiday spots are Kartini Park, and the beach of Jangkar Dompo Awang. The people here hold the kupatan ceremony once in a year, throughout the week, at the end of the month Ramadhan (Idulfitri). The old Temple of Ciu Kwi Kiang, reminds of the early period of Islam in Rembang. In this town lies the grave of R.A. Kartini, the Indones ian pioneer of the women’s emancipation movement.
The recreation park of Sumber Semen is a nice park with shady trees and a spring.
Blora is a town 22 kilometers from Rem bang. Here are the graves of Aria Jipang and Sunan Pojok. Both graves are much visited by pilgrims. A popular holiday spot is the Cave of Crawang.
Cepu is near the boundary between Central Java and East Java. A former oil town, it has a school for students of the oil industry, run by the state oil company Pertamina. Cepu has a small airport.
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